Friday, July 31, 2009
I have liked the thicker curries with some kind of vegetable meatball type thing in it. At least it feels like I am eating something with some substance to it compared to just mixing in the curry and the rice.
My savior when I get home is becoming Dominos. I have turned to the veg personal pizza which is 35 rupees or about 70 cents. I have had the shallots and the onion so far. I would go with the non-veg but they only put a couple pieces of chicken on it and double the price. When I walk over there I feel like I am the main attraction. I get a few stares and hear the word American and pointing in my direction.
I must be feeling more comfortable because I walked the 6 blocks to Dominos at 9 pm last night in the dark. There are a few street lights next to Dominos. It was the first time I have seen the bugs swarming. As I sat down outside waiting for the pizza I had about 10 different kinds of bugs land or crawl on me. They were just about every size to. From a 1 inch beetle crawling on the ground and over my shoe to some little tiny flying bugs. At least nothing was biting.
For breakfast I am going with the cheese omlette. Instead of toast I am going with what ever India bread they have. Sometimes they even have chilies on the bread or cooked in the bread. I also get a couple of chicken sausage links, occasionally they will mix in the spicy version but I can see the red and green flakes on it. They also have some kind of potato. Usually potato and cheese which is just a sliced potato with cheese melted on it. Then a couple pieces of fruit, usually watermelon and some kind of other mellon. Breakfast has become the biggest meal of the day for me.
In the breakfast restaurant there are usually 7 guys waiting on me offering me anything from juice to coffee to tea and looking to refill it after every sip. The good thing is I walk in and they start cooking the omlette right away for me. I am still usually the only person in the place around 8 am.
The temp has cooled down to about 100 the last few days. According to weather.com it is about 92 but with humidity it is 104. It does feel cooler out. If I was in MN I would be complaining about the heat and would be hanging around a lake. Here I have a muddy puddle to stomp in from Monday’s rain.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Yesterday was the first true rain of the season. 69 mm in total. There was mass flooding in Delhi. The news was showing roads that were covered about 3 feet high with cars and motorcycles trying to plow through it.
This morning I had a friendly visitor outside my door in the hallway when I came back from breakfast. It was a little lizard. First I tapped my foot by it and it ran straight up my door. I had to chase it back down again as I did not want to open the door and have it run in my room. It was an entertaining 5 minutes. I snapped a picture of it.
Then the lady that sits next to me at work was complaining she had a lizard in her car in the passenger seat this morning. She was freaking out. The rains must have them wondering around.
I have had to call a cab the last two days because most of the group is at an offsite sales meeting. My cab has been a tiny little hatchback with no seat belts in the back. At least it has air-conditioning. I can only understand a few words the driver says, but he has been able to get me to and from work with no problems.
On my ride home on Saturday the driver cranked up some music and it was American music. He asks “You like?” I recognized the song as it was Lady Gaga with Pokerface. I said “Lady Gaga”. He started to laugh and said “ya lady gaga” and laughed some more.
Another difference over hear is how they talk numbers. For instance if two numbers repeat like 44, they will say double 4. If 3 numbers repeat like 444 , they will say triple 4. It threw me off the first couple of times when trying to write down phone numbers.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Delhi Haat
At the warehouse I met up with Gary and Jay from the US operations that are in town for another 2 week stint. Jay is originally from India and has lived in the US for 17 years.
After the tour of the warehouse I went to the Delhi Haat (Hut), in south Delhi with Gary and Jay US. It is a market place where people come to sell their various crafts. It is kind of like a big outdoor craftshow that is open everyday. It was mostly fabrics, art work, jewelry, and wood and stone work pieces. The government owns the lands and gives the spots out for free to the vendors for two weeks at a time. The prices are less expensive and there is bargaining to be had. Plus most of the clothing, artwork and other crafts were all made by hand and hand stitched.
An interesting site there was a roundabout area where all the women were getting the hena type artwork done on their hands and arms.
I was thinking of starting a side business by importing some of the purses from there. The most interesting were lizard skin purses. I did a group project for my MBA Marketing class a couple years ago. In the US, there is a big markup on some of the purses.
Being the cheapskate I am, I did not buy anything this time around, but I am sure I will be back again. There were a couple interesting pieces, but I do not know if I could get them back to the US in one piece.
After walking around for a couple hours, my clothes were completely drenched from sweat. It is bad enough that it is so hot out, but I was also wearing pants. Going outside in shorts is kind of a taboo.
After the trip we went to an area mall. Last year it was the largest mall in India. We went up to the fourth floor and ate at TGI Fridays. I had the Jack Daniels burger. Instead of beef it was lamb. It tasted very good and was a little leaner meat. The interior of the plcace was exactly like the US.
We walked from the mall to their hotel. A little kid followed us for about 3 blocks of the walking holding a red rose. He was poking and holding the arms of Gary and I looking for a handout. Finally Jay said something to him in Hindu and he left. The kinds are persistant.
About another block down the road Jay stopped at a little vendor. For 5 rupees (10 cents), he had a snack made which consisted of a banana leaf and 12 ingredients spread on it. He said the flavor would be too strong for me to take.
Earlier in the day Jay showed me the area around his hotel. It was the narrow little roads that you see on tv with shops on both sides. He took me into a back alley and showed me where he gets his 35 rupee (70 cent) hair cuts. I haven't had a hair cut since being here, so I was debating whethere or not to get out, but the barber was sleeping in his shop. Walking around there were many tailor spots. Basically 8 person sweatshops with sewing machines. Jay asked how much to tailor a combination of shirt and pants. It was 200 rupees, but you would have to buy the fabric from a different store. $4 to completely tailor however meters of fabric into an outfit.
Friday, July 24, 2009
Fish Market and Lotus Temple
Today I ventured out to a different Pearson office in South Delhi. It is about an hour drive from Noida. This was more of what I was expecting to see. It looked like the office and furnishings were from the 70’s and 80’s. It was not nearly as nice as the Noida building.
On the way back we stopped at a fish market, the last thing I ever thought I would see in Delhi. It was a small area packed in with about 10 different fish vendors. The flies were buzzing. As you can see on the pic, those black spots are flies. You could tell the fresher fish from the non fresh as the flies were on the non fresh fish and buzzing the fresher fish. The neat part was the way they chopped up the fish. It looked like a curved sword and they would scale it and cut it on the knife. The guy I went with bought carp. I walked around but did not see anything that looked too unusual. There were a couple slimy looking bulldog type fish that were still alive in buckets. One got out and was wiggling accross the floor. I was told it has a poisonous spike on it somewhere.
A little past the fish market was the Baha’I Temple, otherwise know as the Lotus Temple. It was built about 15 years ago and resembles the Sydney Opera House. It is number 11 on the things not to miss from my Rough Guide book. I did not go inside but snapped a few pictures from the sidewalk.
The BBC contacted me back and they were looking for an executive from a big American based company with both China and India experience to describe the differences in doing business between the two countries. The interview would be televised. I did not make the cut.
It was a clear day yesterday and I took a few pictures from the 6th floor balcony at work of the area and the sunset around 7:00pm. To the naked eye, the sun looks pink when it gets to the layer of the clouds. It must be the way it reflects off the clouds or sand. However in the pictures only the surrounding sky around the sun looks pink.
Today is a different story. First there was a dust storm around 1:30. From the window I could not see more than 100ft as there was so much dust in the air. Then the rains started around 2. Everyone went outside on the balcony to see the rain come down. The temp instantly cooled down. It was even tolerable for me. Then by 2:30 it was sunny again. Everyone’s hopes were up for the start of the monsoons, but it looks like it was a fast moving storm.
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Solar Eclipse from Noida
At the swimming pool the swimming suits of the Hindu women are almost like shorty wetsuits. They look like a one piece that covers from the elbows to the knees. It must be difficult swimming in those things.
I have been having health issues since Saturday afternoon. My stomach feels like it is tied in knots and something is stabbing it from the inside out. I don’t know if it is from something I ate or from the malaria pills I started taking. For Saturday’s lunch I had mutton for the first time from the work cafeteria. Pepto and Tums are not doing anything for it. However I am not running a fever so that is a good sign.
THe big news around here is Hillary Clinton is in town. Every speech is on every news channel. She is talking mostly about education.
Monday, July 20, 2009
The concert outside the apartment on Saturday night turned into a fireworks show. After the fireworks three drummers and 6 men carried in a carriage looking thing that had a candle lit with in. They placed the carriage on the main stage, sang a few more songs, then it looked they took the candle out and each person individually came up looked like they said a prayer while holding the candle to the poster. The music finally stopped around 11:30. These pictures are from the 6th floor of the apartment complex. As you can see in the pamarmomic pic, all the shoes are in the lower left hand corner.
I ventured in a new area walking around on Sunday. About three blocks of the walkway was covered in marble. It was a very nice area that had mostly banks and real estate places. I also found a Dominos and a miniature version of Target called Big Bazaar. Once again to walk into the store I went through a metal detector and a pat down. When I walked out the store they patted everyone down again but me. I must look honest enough.
Of course at the end of the marble walkway were three dumpster and 4 cows. The cows where eating some corn out of the garbage. The flies were buzzing all over the place.
For the first time I saw some PDA (public display of affection) which I thought was frowned upon. However right in front of me in the middle of a road, a bull mounted a cow. It must have been love at first site. This also caused a backup in traffic, but he was a quick one.
Saturday, July 18, 2009
They are split by religion and caste.
Otherwise it I went into work again on Saturday. THere were only a few people in the office compared to last week.
The monsoon was a false alarm. It was only one day of rain. The good news is the sky is now blue instead of a gray haze. THe bad news is the temps are back up again.
As a result of the rains being delayed, prices are beginning to go up. THe farmers in India do not have adequate irrigation systems or access to water. If there is no rain, there are no crops. Then it is all supply and demand.
Gas is also going up here. They charge by the liter. Gas has been the same price for the last 3 years because the government subsidizes prices. I read an article that last year the subsidy was around $13 USD billion.
Inflatioin is also around 10% around here. For the forecasting I am working on projecting out the next three years, it is the first time I have ever had to think about an inflation factor as it has a major impact.
Tonight there is some kind or party going on outdoors next to the apartment. There is a live band and it is echoing throughout the apartment. I will take some pictures later tonight and post tomorrow. Plus there is a big poster of one of the Hindu gods.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
The monsoons started up again. It rained all night. They do not have the best drainage systems in the area. There are large pools of water in the low spots of the roads. The good news is the base temperature is now around 90, but the humidity is 95% so it still feels like it is over 100. When we walk outside, everyone’s glasses immediately fog up from the humidity. At least I no longer have to worry about that.
I have had no issues with my eyes since I have been here. I had lazik surgery in January and was suffering from dry eyes back in the US. Maybe drinking all the water has helped.
I am sure the mosquitos will be coming out soon. I stopped taking the malaria prescription as a result of the side affects, but will start it back up again.
I have upgraded to the 2 liter water bottle. It is heavy to carry around, but only 22 rupees or about 45 cents.
The biggest issue I have right now is the feeling of independence. In the US I can go anywhere at anytime I felt like it and not get worried about getting lost or possible safety issues. First I don’t know where anything is around here yet. Then when I ask I get three different sets of directions. I haven’t seen a street sign with a road name on it. I am sure I will get to that comfortable point here, but right now I do not feel that way. When I get home from work it is pitch black dark out already as it gets dark around 7:30. There are very few street lights. If I walk 5 feet outside the security gate at the apartment I feel like I am in one of the Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome type of movies. People are burning fires and cooking their meals on the road right outside their tent houses. There are no sidewalks so the cars drive by just missing you by inches at times. I think I am safe, but I really stick out walking around. I brought a flashlight, so I have a little light to look out for stray dogs, cow patties and the occasional cow sleeping on the side of the road.
Talking about the darkness, that is one of the biggest surprises when I flew in. With the population here, I was expecting to see miles and miles of lights from the buildings. However there were only a few spotted areas of lights. It was like flying into a place smaller than Minneapolis. I don’t know if it was as a result of a less populated area or what.
I am also surprised by the amount of garbage that is on the side of the roads. Some areas it is 3-4 feet high. It is mostly plastic items. Any food gets eaten by the cows and dogs roaming around. They do not have recycling over here. On my water bottles it says “Crush the bottle after use”.
Today I watched the sunset and the sun was a bright pink color. I have never seen the sun that color before. I will try to snap a picture of it one of these days.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Another Day
I was contacted by the India BBC today to do an interview on why American Expats are coming to India. More to come if I get interviewed.
Last night I had Dominos. I ordered enough to make a couple meals out of it. For less than $10 I was able to get a large chicken and onion pizza, a coke and a calzone. I did have a coupon for a free calzone though. They put the spicy chicken in it though instead of the plain chicken. After one piece I was sweating and my nose was running. There is no need for hot wings over here.
There are many pigeons around here. When I am swimming in the outdoor pool they will come down and drink right out of the pool. They also nest between the ac unit and the window outside. I can hear them flapping around every once in a while
I am going to have to make a trip to the distribution facilities out here at some point. Gary told me there are about 100 monkeys that live around the distribution building. I was told they won’t bug you if you don’t bother them. However if you do something they don’t like they will stand up on their feet, screech and show their teeth. Rabies here I come.
Last year they introduced tables for the first time to the distribution facilities. Before the workers would sit on the floor and do there work. So what did they do with the tables the first day? They climbed on top of the tables, sat down on the table and worked like they always did. Makes training a little more difficult.
Gary was also telling me that the only bathroom there is for management. If a laborer worker were to go in and use this bathroom they would be docked a full days pay.
I have seen a few men peeing on the side of the road driving around. I have yet to see anyone squatting. Just one more thing to look forward to.
I also found out a big business around town is picking up the cow patties from all the cows wandering around. Then they dry them out and sell the cow patty like firewood to use to cook food and such. Nothing goes to waste around here. I especially enjoy watching the cows eat out of the garbage. I wonder what cows the cheese comes from that I am eating. It might even be goat cheese.
I have only run into a few international people over here so far, this morning a couple of businessman from Scotland. Most of them tell me I am crazy for doing this alone. All of them come in groups of 2 or 3, stay for only 2 weeks and have a host. The have also told me what they think India really means – I’ll Never Do It Again. I have heard that from a few different people. That makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
The weekend
I feel like I am in India version of Office Space. Around 7pm on Friday I was asked to come in on Saturday to do some work. So I ended up coming in for a few hours. About 50% of the people in the area I sit in were working on Saturday. In most departments a 6 day work week is expected. On Saturday they put in 4-6 hours instead of the 9+.
I did go to the local mall after work on Saturday. It is called the Shipra Mall. It is the largest mall in the area. It is about 1/3 the size of Southdale mall. Most of the stores were clothing and the majority were on men's business clothing. It felt like it was about 90 walking around in the mall. Most stores were very small in size, about 20 feet wide and 50 feet long. There were a couple larger stores and a movie theater also. I recognized a couple brands and store names from the states. The mall had valet parking which we used. Entering the mall and having to walk through a metal detector and getting padded down. The highlight was going to McDonalds. I had a chicken sandwich and a coke. My friend had a veggie burger and a coke. The bill came to 140 rupees or about $2.80. There was also a Papa John's in the mall.
Earlier in the week I also saw an interesting comedy called Outsourced. It is about a call center manager who has to train his replacement in India because his job has been outsource. The beginning of the movie with his experiences in India were pretty close to what I went through.
As far as TV there are about 60 channels, but only 5 are in English and 2 are the same movie channel. 2 of them are Star Movie channels and they other 3 show movies or old episodes of US tv. The movie channels all show commercials. There is an ESPN but all I have seen on it is cricket, golf and tennis. There is a CNBC but it is only focused on the India markets and only in Hindu.
Here is a link to my favorite commercial out here. The song in the background is my new theme song. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls-uSu4h248
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Random babbling
The place I am staying at has an excellent power generator. Power goes out quite often at the apartment, but it kicks back in within 30 seconds. From talking to others at work, power can go out for up to 3-4 days at a time in the area I am staying. For one of the coworkers who lives in the area, the power last night went out around 9pm and her backup generator did not kick in. Finally the power turned on around 6am. It was a sleepless night for her because of the heat. At least I know I am not the only one struggling with the heat.
Another difference I have noticed in the dress of some of the men is they will leave the first two buttons open on their shirt to show off a little chest hair. It might be for better ventilation also.
As for the food it is one of two menus, veg and non-veg at restaraunts. The non-veg consists primarily of chicken, mutton and fish. I have only gone with the chicken so far. To me all of the dishes have been too spicy and too oily. I have only had lunch at work and I have only gone with the veg. You get a stainless steel tray and there are 3 choices - rice and two curries. Most of the people here go about 20% rice and 80% curry where I go about 90% rice and 10% curry, and it is still too hot for me. There are also a tortilla type flat bread, can be fried, grilled, and sometimes have spices in it.
I have ordered room service a couple times. Each time they have either brought me something I didn't order or brought me something that sounded similar but cost 3 times as much. It is always a suprise when they come to the door.
There are no bugs to eat here like in China, the Hindu’s do not believe in killing any form of life. I haven’t seen any chocolate since I have been here either, it is too hot for it. The guy that drives me is purely vegetarian. The only thing he ingests that comes from an animal is milk. He has never eaten eggs or any other animal products. If I were to go to his house to eat, they would never use that dish and silverware again since I am a beef eater. Most families have different sets of dishes for such visitors, but they can never touch or be stored in the same area.
Last night he brought a desert in called keel. It is made up of milk, rice, sugar and dried fruits. It was sweet and very good, almost like a light rice pudding with more liquid in it. It is only for special occasions, it was his wife’s birthday the day before.
I also have not seen a mosquito over here yet. I think since I am in a residential area and it has been a drought so far, there have not been any issues. The only bugs I have seen are a few flies. I did see my first lizard this morning walking to breakfast. It was running across the sidewalk.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
A Hindu Funeral
Last week, a coworker’s husband passed away. I was invited to the funeral last Friday but turned down the invitation since I had only met the co-worker once. However Gary did attend the Hindu funeral and filled me in. About 1,200 people attended as they have very large families out here. A Hindu funeral is very different than a Christian in one area. It has a live, open flame cremation during the funeral process. The body is put into a platform with a tee-pee shape of wood surrounding it. The body is only covered by a linen sheet. The oldest male of the family is the person that lights the fire with a torch, in this circumstance it was his 6 year old son. Then the body slowly begins to cremate in front of the crowd and is very visible.
In this same location were 20 such platforms with 5 other proceedings happening with bodies in various stages of cremation, but easy to see and smell. Gary said this is a sight he will never forget.
Once the cremation is final the remaining ashes are taken to a river to float away.
Before I left for India, I was watching a show called Deadliest Fish on the Discovery Channel. The deadliest fish are fish that go after people. The show was in a Northern India river where this ritual takes place and when the body is halfway cremated it is sent down the river. The killer fish, a catfish, has now grown very large 200+ pounds as it is eating the cremated bodies. The catfish has acquired the taste for human and is now going after live swimmers. The catfish come close to shore when there is a lot of activity on the shore and a fire is started. I will not be scuba diving in that river.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Lakhs and Crores
Monday, July 6, 2009
Pictures posted to Google Picasa
I took many pictures from just about every angle.
If this works, I will post all of my pics out there.
Sunday, July 5, 2009
Taj Mahal
The drive was about 3.5 hours in total each way. I finally got to see some of the real India at this time. First it was water buffalo, cows and pigs eating out of the garbage at the side of the road. At a gas station a monkey handler and snake charmer trying to get tips. Congested traffic, honking and near accidents one after another. People living in carboard boxes. Children knocking on the window begging for money. There was an area of looked like rice patties with 50+ people bent over picking up the rice in the fields. There was a small temple with the same marble color and architecture about 45km before Agra. There was also a big market there. Traffic came to a big standstill. As we drove by a bus that was pulled over on the side of the road, we notice a large one foot in diameter steel pipe had gone straight through the engine. Who knows how long it was, but it did some damage.
We finally arrived in Agra and traffic once again slowed down to less than 5 miles an hour. The first building we saw was the Agra Fort. A large red fort that only 20% of the fort is available to see for tourists. The other 80% is for the Indian Army. We visited the fort after seeing the Taj.
Another mile down the road was the entrance for the Taj. As we entered we were immediately surrounded by children trying to sell different items. Raj told us not to make eye contact or say a word. We did that for about 20 feet and all they did was follow us. Raj was talking to a guy in Hindu and told us to get in a vehicle that was parked next to us. He had already arranged a tour guide. It was just in time to escape the peddling kids. The other mode of transportation were camel pulled carts and electric vehicles. No motorized vehicles are allowed within a mile of the Taj to help protect the white marble.
We got out of the vehicle and were attacked again by the peddling kids. By this time I was already in a full sweat as it was about 110 degrees out. It was over 120+ by the time we left. Our tickets were bought at about US price of $15 each and we were off to go through the security check which involved walking through a metal detector and a pat down.
Once inside the tour guide explained the first set of buildings which were originally hotel rooms for tourists before the 1960’s. They are no longer used.
We entered the main entrance, a massive arched doorwaty topped with topes and covered in inlaid floral designs. Through these door the white marble of the Taj Mahal stands. There is a long pool that falls before the Taj. In the right light the reflection shines in the pool. I am hoping my pictures caught this. We then took several pictures from several angles of the Taj. We moved to the middle of the pools where there is a large square. There is a bench in this area which every politician and famous person has taken their picture on. We had to wait a good 10 minutes for an opportunity to take a picture from this site. Eventually we made our way to the Taj Mahal. You can not enter with shoes, however they did provide us slippons to cover our shoes. I don’t think my feet would have lasted 5 minutes on the marble.
The tour guide explained how the marble inlay was done. There are about 250 inlayed marble pieces to make a flower and there is a flower about every 6 inches around the building. It is very remarkable. Also the marble is a unique kind of marble that should never stain or corrode.
Cameras were not allowed inside the tomb which was completed around 1666. The Taj is symmetrical in every way if it was cut in quarters except for the tombs themselves. There were two. A larger one in the middle and a smaller one to the left. The marble workmanship and designs were amazing, especially since it was all done by hand. I think it must have been 140 degrees in there. We walked around a couple more rooms which had more esquisite inlay and marble designs. Finally we walked out the other side to face the Yamuna River which has nearly dried up as a result of the drought this year. There were a few water buffalo in the river.
By this time all 4 of us were sweating profusely. The only thing I can compare it to is walking around in a sauna with intense fluorescent lights shining on you. It is hot to start off with, put 80% humidity and add an intense sun. I did end up with some sunburn on my face.
Next we went to the Agra fort. The fort was last captive by a King. The king was overthrown by his son, who put his father in jail within the fort. The new king then had his brother killed. The fort was full of architecture and elaborate carvings in red stone and marble. From one wall of the fort overlooked the Taj Mahal. This is were the kings jail was.
We ate lunch at Pizza Hut and were off to out 3.5 hour ride back. Having Raj on the trip was immensely important. Only a few signs were in English, and everyone was trying to sell us something or point us in a different direction. Alone, I do not think I would have made it to the front gates of the Taj Majal. The experience was once in a lifetime. The building is truely remarkable being built almost 350 years ago.